6 moments you might have missed from the autumn/winter 2025 menswear shows

It’s telling that on the final day of the fall/winter 2025 men’s collections, Simon Porte Jacquemus made an abrupt departure. The showman who had previously taken over entire lavender fields in the south of France and the hilltop villages of Capri decided to stage an intimate presentation of monochrome dresses at the former home of Auguste Perret in Paris. “I want to bare myself in front of you, without artifice,” the creator’s notes read, in what appears to be a subtle riposte to what has already been an overwhelming 15 or so things.

As a reminder: the fall/winter 2025 season began on January 14 and will continue until March 3 – during which the editors will have traveled from Pitti Uomo to Florence, to Milan and Paris for the men’s shows (where the fashion set will remain for a week of Haute Couture presentations) before flying to New York and London, then again to Milan and Paris, for the last stage of the women’s collections. There are also alternative fashion weeks, such as those in Berlin and Copenhagen, which increasingly receive the same press treatment as traditional capitals.

The antidote to all this noise lies within you. By cultivating your likes and dislikes. By being discerning about what you give your precious (and it really is precious) attention to. By developing a critical eye. Because there’s a lot to admire about fashion if you adjust the lens. The funeral pulse of Dior; the mental aphrodisiacs stirred up between Ms. Prada and Raf Simons; Willy Chavarria’s actors marching towards Bishop Mariann Budde’s speech to Donald Trump; everything Martine Rose does, but above all how she discovers beauty where others cannot. Here are six things to remember from the fall/winter 2025 men’s shows. (You might find something you like… or better yet, something you don’t like.)

Prada swore in a new world disorder

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Prada men’s clothing fall/winter 2025.

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Prada men’s clothing fall/winter 2025.

“I’m curious to see how this all plays out,” said one critic after previewing Prada’s fall/winter 2025 collection 24 hours before the rest of us. “I don’t really know what the whole thing will look like.” This comment, unusually hesitant from this particular enthusiast, alluded to the unconventional bag of characters who would later traverse a three-story maze of scaffolding at the Fondazione Prada. There were piped pajamas and rough leather suits; very shiny waistcoats and ivory silk suits; kids’ tops adorned with 1970s camper van florals and collared bombers with sturdy shearlings. Almost everything had to do with skinny pants and scuffed cowboy boots. “The Prada man was falling apart and then adopting several looks in the lexicon – from caveman to cowboy to businessman and more – at the same time, seemingly with little respect for the conventions of context, image or intention”, declared VogueIt’s Luke Leitch. Backstage, Miuccia Prada described it this way: “It’s a bit of a response, as always, to what’s happening,” she said. “So we must resist with our instinct, our humanity, our passion and our hands in a world that is becoming so conservative.” It was the most coveted collection of the entire men’s season.

Kim Jones presented her best Dior collection yet

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Dior man fall/winter 2025.

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Dior man fall/winter 2025.

It was a collection that rivaled Kim Jones’ fall/winter 2017 offering in terms of ovations alone, back when he unveiled a Supreme collaboration with Dior that would usher in an entire era of streetwear partnerships. But the designer’s fall/winter 2025 collection was his finest yet. “The customer wants to see something new,” he told reporters backstage. “Fashion has become very, very fast. I think social media has made people’s attention spans very, very short, and so the hype can sometimes trump the craft. And so, Kim went back to basics: taking inspiration from the architecture of Dior’s fall/winter 1954 “H-Line” haute couture collection in linear cuts with tucked waists, swing coats in cotton-faille pink silk and belted kimonos. And, as rumors continued to swirl around Dior’s all-but-confirmed leadership changes, Jones sent his models into a symbolic unknown, their eyes obscured by blindfolded ribbons, as if nobly accepting their fate. Shortly after the house lights went down at her fall/winter 2025 presentation, Jones’ friends and admirers (including Anna Wintour, Kate Moss, Gwendoline Christie, Robert Pattinson, Lulu Kennedy and Rick Owens) gathered to see the designer knighted as a Knight of the Legion of Honor – France’s highest civilian distinction.

But Paris was really for dads

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Willy Chavarria fall/winter 2025.

Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde

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