Micro-spicules in skincare promise glow, collagen and microneedling in a bottle. But do they deliver?
Formerly the field of dermatologists and sterile clinics, the micro-needle has gone to the shelves of the bathroom. Beauty brands are now embedding the logic of the procedure, using micro-spicles that promise similar skin advantages, without downtime. These tiny crystals derived from the navy are designed to create micro-channels on the surface of the skin, improving the absorption of products, improving texture and pushing the skin in renewal mode.
But does the bite are worth science? And can a topical product really recreate what is traditionally done with needles and numb cream? I spoke to dermatologists by trying my own.
What are the micro-spicules?
“Microscopic microscopic structures similar to needles that create micro-channels in the skin,” explains Dr. Prachi Bodkhe, dermatologist at EVI Aesthetic. “They help increase the absorption of active ingredients and stimulate collagen production by initiating a controlled inflammatory response.”
Although they seem futuristic, these Spicules are not a new innovation. They were extracted from marine sponges like HALICLONA SP. For decades in traditional medicine and their clear and porous texture has found a renewed popularity in skin care. “Unlike dermatollers or micro-active devices that pierce the skin, spicules are more like microscopic projections that exfoliate and stimulate,” explains Dr. Bodkhe. “It is important to follow soothing agents and moisturizing ingredients after use, as the skin barrier has been temporarily disrupted.”
Are they safe?
It depends on who you ask and how you use them. “The micro-spicules are mainly physical exfoliating. They can be abrasive and can cause irritation or microtears in sensitive skin, “warns Dr. Madhuri Agarwal, founder of Yavana Aesthetics Clinic. “They can also lead to a barrier function and compromise inflammation if they are overused.”
It draws a parallel with aggressive scrubs from the early 2000s: “These products remind me of the physical exfoliating that we have used in the past, these scrubs from the gravelly walnut shell which caused more harm than good. We have moved away from them for a reason. ”
While many brands market serums based on Spicules such as alternatives without needle in the micro-needle, Dr Agarwal is skeptical. “Micro-spicles cannot and should not replace the professional micro-needle,” she said firmly. “The administration mechanism and the assets used in the clinic of a dermatologist are much more controlled and effective.”
My experience with micro-spicling skin care
The first time I used a micro-spicious product, I didn’t even know what it was. My sister had passed along a trendy serum – counted on the impulse – and I followed it with a copper peptide serum, in the hope of maximizing absorption. The thorny feeling was new at the start. A few days later, my skin subject to rosacea was in full rebellion. He broke out, angry and ignited, and I put the development product. Bad timing, I said to myself. It was summer, my skin was already irritated and I had not consulted dermis.
