How to use vitamin C the right way for glowing, even-toned skin (and the products to pick up)

Learning to use vitamin C in the right way is a business worthy of care. The ingredient approved by experts is the ordeal to lighten a dull complexion and the discoloration of solar stains (especially over the years) and it is a natural collagen booster. In short, familiarizing yourself with this powerful antioxidant is essential to any robust skin care strategy.

“Vitamin C is perhaps the most powerful topical antioxidant we have,” explains dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD. “It neutralizes the damage of free radicals and protects the skin from UV light and other environmental attackers, while blocking abnormal pigmentation to tone and fade in dark spots.” And although it is best known for clarification, it can also help firm the skin, adds Kate Somerville, the facialist of Los Angeles. “I used vitamin C in my clinic for years to help elasticity and tighten the skin around the neck and bar turning,” she said.

Although this comes with a few disadvantages aside (Michelle Henry, MD, a certified dermatologist based in New York, says that it can be irritating for those who have sensitive skin or if you do not use a strong percentage, and you could feel redness, tingling or eruptions if you are not cautious), that should not divert you. It’s about finding the best product for you and your skin. “Everyone can benefit from vitamin C,” says Shereene Idriss, MD, a certified dermatologist based in New York and founder of Dr Idriss Skincare. “It is a staple food in any skin care routine, no matter your age. Just find the right shape for your skin type. ”

Here, how to best use the hero ingredient with a brighter, smoother and lighter complexion.

Choose the right concentration

The identification of the right concentration for your skin type is essential to the effectiveness of your topical vitamin C, explains the New York dermatologist, Dr. Patricia Wexler. “Start with a low concentration of 10% and increase to 15% or 20% as tolerated,” she said. For oily or normal skin, L-Ascorbic acid is the most powerful form of vitamin C and can be the most beneficial, while for dry and sensitive skin, ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, a vitamin C soluble in water, is less irritating.

Pay attention to pH

The absorption of vitamin C depends largely on its pH level. If you have normal skin, look for one with a weak pH of about 3.5 for optimal absorption. If you have sensitive skin, you should use a formula with a pH of 5 to 6. “It is the natural pH of the skin and will not be as irritating,” explains Wexler.

Serum

Serums are the most common vitamin C product. They are designed to offer a high concentration of active ingredients in a simple asyable form: they “keep this ingredient stable and improve penetration through the layer of external skin”, explains Zeichner. With regard to complementary ingredients, Wexler thinks that vitamin C works better in combination with vitamin E, ferulic acid, vitamin B and hyaluronic acid. “Vitamin C and E are both antioxidants and support each other,” she explains, adding that ferulic acid is another antioxidant that stimulates and stabilizes both vitamin C and vitamin E to combat the damage of free radicals and collagen production. That said, sensitive skin types could benefit from the mixture of their serum in a moisturizer or to opt for a vitamin C infused moisturizer for softer delivery.

Start slowly

Whatever the sensitivity of your skin, a progressive test of new ingredients is always advised. “With any active, it is important to start slowly when you incorporate ingredients into your routine,” said Somerville. “I saw incredible results with customers who have added vitamin C in their diet three times a week and worked on daily use.” To this end, do not expect an instant gratuity. “It takes several weeks of continuous use to start seeing the complexion,” explains Zeichner, adding that because it is a key ingredient for prevention, some of the advantages of vitamin C will be imperceptible.

Stick it safely

Vitamin C serums are available in two main categories: water -based and anhydrous (which means “without water”). The first is more unstable and light, and is generally maintained in opaque or amber color bottles for this reason, while the second tends to be more stable, even in the presence of sunlight. Regardless of the type you opt, make sure that your vitamin C is stabilized and kept hermetic in a dark and fresh space is essential. “If the color becomes dark or cloudy, it has already oxidized,” warns Wexler, adding that the same is true if you detect a rancid odor. The packaging also counts. According to the certified dermatologist of the Council, Dr. Whitney Bowe, traditional drops can accelerate oxidation and cause the antioxidant rupture, then opt for airless pumps when possible.

Superimpose it under SPF

Unlike hydroxy acids or retinol, vitamin C does not make skin more vulnerable to sunburn. The most powerful forms of vitamin C itself, however, are vulnerable to an exposure to light, which makes UVA / UVB coverage with broad spectrum in conjunction with the ingredient. The good news is that, in layers under a sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 30, vitamin C still protects the skin. “Consider it as a safety net to help neutralize the damage of free radicals that can occur thanks to the penetration of UV light despite our best protective efforts with sunscreen,” explains Zeichner.

Brighten up your diet

Although vitamin C is a topical power station, it also does wonders inside. “You can integrate vitamin C into your diet to nourish your skin from the inside,” says Bowe. “Citrus (oranges, lemon, grapefruit) are an excellent source of vitamin C, but you can also reach peppers and more.”

What step in your skin care routine do you apply vitamin C?

Dr. Idriss says it will depend on the type of vitamin C product you use. If you use a vitamin C serum, it says you want to use it just after cleaning your face. If you use a vitamin C moisturizer, it says it can double as Hydrator and treatment step.