Is ginseng an alternative to retinol?

In China and Korea, ginseng has been used in the pharmacopoeia for thousands of years. Especially because it is traditionally associated with longevity. It has positive effects on memory, acts as an energy booster, increases libido, strengthens the immune system and, above all, has anti-inflammatory properties, which help reduce intestinal swelling and digestive disorders.

In the cosmetics field, Ginseng’s root is one of the pillars of Korean care, due to its energizing, antioxidant, hydrating and anti-aging properties. It is not a coincidence that the scientific name of his plant, Panaxhas the same root as the term “panacea”.

“It is considered the most precious factory in Asia, formerly reserved for kings,” explains Audrey Faure Grousson, doctor of pharmacy and project manager for the active ingredients of the Korean brand of makeup and skin care Erborian. “It is also one of the most studied plant species in the world, and it has not yet revealed all its secrets.”

The advantages of ginseng for the skin

Although the properties of ginseng are not yet fully known, we know that this plant, present both in East Asia and North America, is a particularly powerful ingredient to fight oxidative stress and premature aging of cells. This is mainly due to the four active ingredients contained in its root:

Vitamin C: Helps maintain the elasticity of the skin and participates in the synthesis of collagen;

Vitamin E: reinforces the hydrolipidic film of the skin;

Vitamin B: reduces inflammation;

Ginsenosides: Stimulate cell regeneration, improve elasticity and tone, reduce fine lines and fine lines and give brightness to the skin.

Red ginseng vs ginseng white

The Ginseng root is used in two variants: red and white. The so-called “red ginseng” comes from roots aged at least 6 years and owes its color to a conservation process which involves treating the root with a high temperature vapor (120-130 °) for 2-3 hours before drying. White ginseng, on the other hand, is obtained from younger roots, 4 years old, which are washed, scraped and then dried.

Although the difference between the two types is essentially the age of the root and treatment, some studies suggest that white ginseng, undergoing minimal heat treatment, better maintains the original profile of ginsenosides and, therefore, their effectiveness.

Should you exchange retinol with ginseng?

Ginseng’s exceptional antioxidant properties have led several skin care marks to incorporate this naturally derived ingredient into their product formulas. The aforementioned Erborian K-Brand, for example, has created a super powerful complex, the white ginseng complex, which combines the advantages of white ginseng with those of other plant species, in particular liquorice (soothing, refreshing), wild nail (hydrating), cellar (stimulates the production of collestis) and kigèle (toning, company, regeneration).

Some studies suggest that ginseng could even be an alternative to what is now considered to be the star ingredient in skin care, retinol (which is a chemical compound derived from vitamin A), equaling its advantages but without the drawbacks, such as photosensitivity and the risk of causing irritation, redness and burst (especially in the first phase of use).

This article appeared for the first time on vogue.fr

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