Varun Bahl’s new cafe in Delhi deserves its flowers—and is filled with them

Café Fleur is the first in a series of spaces that the designer has in mind. The next one, he says, will open at his new store in Hyderabad later this year, followed by another in Mumbai, when he finds a suitable store location. “I had the privilege of growing up in a home and family that prioritized hospitality, good food and long, lazy afternoons spent sipping delicious drinks. I want to share this with people, whether they buy from my store or not,” he smiles. It is obvious that Bahl takes immense joy in welcoming guests. During our conversation, he regularly excuses himself to check on each table, making sure everyone is taken care of and the food and drinks are to their liking.

I sample the cafe’s upscale Italian cuisine: a burrata-topped pizza with a mille-feuille base that crumbles into a delicious, buttery mess that you’ll need a fork to scoop up; a homemade bagel topped with salmon and cream cheese that’s both refreshing and filling; a quiche with incredibly thin shortcrust pastry; and finally, a pan-fried salmon fillet flavored with lime and butter. The tiramisu is, true to Bahl’s long association with Italy, bitter and creamy and the perfect end to a great meal.